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Turkey

    Eastern Turkey: Van & Akdamar Island

    Before our flight back to Ankara on Sunday, we visited Akdamar Island in Lake Van. Our travel book said the best deal was to ferry with a group of 15 people. We didn’t have enough time to wait for more people, and we found a “private” ferry that cost 130TL for 8 people round trip (that’s about $7.25 USD a person).

    It was foggy out, but we could still see the island ahead of us and the mountains behind us.

     

    Sailing to Akdamar

     

    Akdamar Island

     

    The Church of the Holy Cross sits on the island. I don’t know all of the history, but it was an Armenian church.

     

    Akdamar Island

     

    There’s a legend behind this island. The story says an Armenian girl named Tamar fell in love with a boy on the mainland. He would swim to the island to meet with her every time she lit a lantern. Her father found out about it and lit a lantern during a storm. The boy never made it to the island. Before he died, the last words he said were “Akh, Tamar” (Oh, Tamar). Hence, Akdamar Island.

     

    View from Akdamar Island

     

    Entrance to the church and island cost 3TL or was free with the Müze card. There were many preserved frescos inside the church:

     

    Cathedral Church of the Holy Cross frescoes

     

    Cathedral Church of the Holy Cross ceiling

     

    The exterior of the church was as elaborate as the inside. There were several depictions of Bible stories: Adam and Eve, David and Goliath… This lamb on the outside made me laugh. He looks like such a cartoon:

     

    Funny lamb on the church

     

    There weren’t many people on the island with us. It was very peaceful. There were a few buds on the trees and I can only imagine how beautiful it is when it’s in full bloom.

     

    Akdamar mountain view

     

    Our friends found a hole in the fence, and we hiked up the rocky hillside for a great view. (If you visit, the hole is quite large – just walk up to the fence. You’ll see it!)

     

    Overlooking Akdamar

     

    The ferryman let us stay for an hour, then we headed back to shore.

     

    ferrytoland

     

    Back in Van, we stopped by the Kedi Evi (Cat House). Basically, it was a small building with windows and fences around the cats. Van is famous for their two-color eyed cats. Most of the cats weren’t in too great of shape. We guessed there was a lot of inbreeding.

     

    Van Cat House

     

    This little guy was a cutie, though!

     

    Van cat two colored eyes

     

    We grabbed some coffee from Kahve Diyarı  and then found a cheese market. Van is known for its otlu peyniri. We had some at our hotel’s breakfast. It was good, but it is a STINKY cheese mixed with herbs. It tastes stronger than blue cheese and it’s oh, so salty! We didn’t buy any, but one of our friends did. We did, however, pick up some Iranian tea and Iranian rice to take home.

     

    Otlu cheese

     

    From there, we went to the airport and flew back home. Visiting eastern Turkey was quite an experience!

     

    » Read about our first day in Van here.
    » Read about day two in Doğubeyazıt here.

     

    Eastern Turkey: Doğubayazıt

    After our first night in Van, we traveled 110 miles north to Doğubayazıt. Our goal was to see Ağrı Dağı (Mount Ararat) and visit Ishak Pasha Palace.

    We were super pumped to be within a mile and a half of Iran. David pointed out every watch tower along the border.

     

    Van to Dogubayazit

     

    The drive took over three hours. As we traveled north, we saw a lot more snow. We also ran into fog which made for some scary driving, but David mastered it like a pro.

     

    Snowy roadside

     

    We finally got to Doğubayazıt only to run into some political protests in the street. (Don’t worry – nothing violent.) Police were blocking the street we needed, and we circled around for quite a while trying to find a different way to the palace. We ended up stopping just outside of the town to regroup and stretch our legs.

     

    Our rental car

     

    Behind us, you can see part of Mount Ararat beneath the fog:

     

    Group by Ararat

     

    David wanted to say “I ran near Iran!” so he used his GPS watch and went on a little jog:

     

    David running

     

    Since we had driven so far, we went back into town to see if we could get to the palace one more time. Fortunately, a policeman finally let us through! Do you see the palace? It’s directly above the last power pole:

     

    Driving to Ishak Palace

     

    Ishak palace

     

    Ishak Pasha Palace was built in 1685 during the Ottoman period. Entry was 5TL or free with the Müze card.

     

    Ishak Palace Entryway

     

    ishakpalace

     

    This is the ceiling of the mosque within the palace:

     

    Ishak Palace ceiling

     

    The view of the surrounding landscape was incredible:

     

    Mountain view out window

     

    Mountain Landscape

     

    It was International Women’s Day so we took a picture of the girls in the hamam:

     

    Women's Day

     

    After a while at the castle, we decided to head back so we wouldn’t have to drive in the dark. We passed through several small towns along the way:

     

    Turkish town

     

    Political party flags

     

    We made a quick stop about 35 miles outside of Van at Muradiye Waterfalls. The Turkish word for waterfall is şelale (sheh-lah-lay) – isn’t that pretty? We walked across the suspension bridge and back, but didn’t stay very long. I’m sure it’s much nicer when everything is green and in bloom.

     

    Muradiye waterfall

     

    Muradiye waterfall

     

    I never thought I would see so much of eastern Turkey. And we still had one more day!

    PS. Did you know there’s Mount Ararat bottled water?

     

    Mount Ararat water

     

    » Read about our first day in Van here.
    » Read about our last day at Akdamar Island here.

     

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    Eastern Turkey: Van

    So, we traveled to eastern Turkey and didn’t tell our families.

    We told them afterwards, of course. But we didn’t want them to worry while we were there. Van was on our friends’ bucket lists before they moved back to the States. We had a long weekend and decided it might be our only chance to visit. I knew it was “out east,” but didn’t realize how far until I looked it up on a map. It’s really close to the border of Iran!

     

    Map of Ankara to Van

     

    Our group of seven left Ankara on Friday morning. The Van airport was very tiny with only one gate. While we stood by baggage claim, it was glaringly obvious to us and everyone around us that we were foreigners. With two blondes, a redhead, and an Asian, there was no possibility of trying to blend in.

    We decided it would be best to rent a car considering how many of us there were and the places we wanted to see. One of our friends is taking language lessons and has amazed us with her Turkish. Between her and the guys, they bartered a great price.

    We got a kick out of the road signs to Iran:

     

    Iran road sign

     

    The city was unlike anything else we had seen in Turkey. Van had a massive earthquake in 2011, and the damage was still very evident. Many buildings had been rebuilt and restored, but there were even more that were still abandoned. We think it was because of the time of year, but the air smelled awful, perhaps from people burning coal and who knows what else to keep warm.

     

    Van city

     

    We stayed at Otel Side. We were surprised how nice the accommodations were in comparison to some of the buildings surrounding it. The hostel was very clean and included a free breakfast.

    After a quick lunch at a kebap restaurant, we drove to the Van Castle. The fortress was conquered by Xerxes in the 5th century BC.

     

    Leah by a Van sign

     

    We were already over 5,300 feet above sea level and it was a steep walk up the path. At least that was my excuse for breathing so heavily.

     

    Van Castle

     

    Van Kalesi

     

    The view at the top was worth the little hike. On one side, you could see the town and the mountains in the distance.

     

    Van Kalesi

     

    And on the other side was Lake Van. It’s the largest lake in Turkey and is 74 miles across at its widest point.

     

    Van Kalesi

     

    Jumping shadow photo

     

    David and Leah

     

    We ate dinner at Yakamoz Restaurant. The food in eastern Turkey is cheaper (and saltier!) than Ankara. Yakamoz included a free meze of salad, çiğ köfte, and salça. They also brought us free dessert!

    Since we had a car and the time, we went down to the harbor. We didn’t stay very long because it was super cold.

     

    Rope and tire by the harbor

     

    Van harbor

     

    Here’s the view of the fortress from the harbor:

     

    Van castle from the harbor

     

    We decided to turn in earlier that night because we had quite a bit of driving we wanted to do on Saturday. More on that soon!

    I have to say, I probably wouldn’t recommend Van as a vacation spot. I’m so glad we went, but Van is not for everyone. It’s a good thing we rented the car, otherwise we wouldn’t have seen half as much as we did. Their public transportation did not look as easy as what we’ve seen in other cities. Also, knowing at least some Turkish is really important out East. We had to call and get translation help from our Turkish friends a couple of times.

     

    » Read about day two in Doğubayazıt here.
    » Read about our last day at Akdamar Island here.

     

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    Runtalya: Antalya 10K

    After the Istanbul Marathon, David really wanted to run another race. Several of our friends signed up for Runtalya and he decided to join them. A month before the race, David sprained his ankle and was on crutches for over a week. It took a while, but it healed enough for him to run in the 10K.

    We left after school on the last day of March and traveled south to Antalya. It was a very quick trip. We got in late on Friday, hung out Saturday, they ran Sunday morning, and we left Sunday afternoon.

     

    Ankara to Antalya

     

    Where we stayed: We stayed at Altun Apart Hotel and highly recommend it. Each “room” is a small apartment with a bedroom, living area, and small kitchenette. It was very clean and the owners were friendly and accommodating. We had two rooms; the guys stayed in one and they let us squeeze five girls into the other.

    It was nice to have a day before the race. We slept in and walked to Konyaaltı Beach, just a few blocks from our hotel. It was overcast and foggy, but we could still see an outline of the mountains in the distance.

     

    David on the Antalya beach

     

    Leah on the Antalya beach

     

    Rocky beach

     

    Antalya beach and mountains

     

    We found a cafe near the water for breakfast. It was a little chilly out, but warmer than it was in Ankara.

     

    Antalya restaurant

     

    I love Turkish breakfast! You can find it buffet style at most hotels. Restaurants also serve single portions or family style. Turkish breakfast includes cucumbers, tomatoes, cheese, meat, pastries, fruit, bread, and çay. Yum!

     

    Turkish breakfast in Antalya

     

    After breakfast, we went to the race check-in at Terra City mall. Then we got coffee and walked around the old city. The port was really pretty at night:

     

    Antalya port

     

    The next morning was race day. It was a smaller event than the Istanbul Marathon. Still, the energy at these races just might be enough to inspire me to run one someday.

     

    Runtalya start

     

    Three of us tagged along as cheerleaders. We went up on the overpass before the start of the 10K. It was a sea of bright colors below us!

     

    Runtalya 10k Start

     

    Here’s David in the last stretch of his race:

     

    David running towards the finish line

     

    And there he goes to the finish line! He passed a couple of people at the end.

     

    David finishing his 10k

     

    David's 10k Medal

     

    There is something really incredible about the race community. Here’s a group called Adım Adım (“step by step”) that runs for charity:

     

    Runtalya

     

    We saw runners both young and old:

     

    Older runtalya athlete

     

    This man is an incredible athlete. We also saw him at the Istanbul Marathon.

     

    Runtalya runner on crutches

     

    There was even a man who juggled while he ran:

     

    Runtalya runner juggling

     

    All of our friends ran the 10K. After they finished, we stuck around to see the first place marathoner:

     

    The marathon winner

     

    It was a great weekend getaway!

     

    The runners and cheerleaders

     

    David was happy with his time of 52:36 considering he had just come off of an injury. See his results on the Runtalya website. You can search for “Benedid.”

     

    Camel Wrestling in Turkey

    We had our parking garage experience in Bodrum on Saturday. The next morning, we took a dolmuş from the city center to the Bodrum Yalı Deve Güreşi Arenası (Bodrum Waterside Camel Wrestling Arena). As soon as we stepped onto the street, we were surrounded by camels and people, all headed into the arena.

     

    Stadium entrace

     

    As we got closer, the live music grew louder and the smell of food stronger. Sausages were draped over stands as köfte (Turkish meatballs) sizzled on open grills. I later bought a sandwich and found out it was not what I expected. The vendor informed me I was the proud new owner of a camel sausage and köfte sandwich. Weird as it may sound, it was actually rather delicious. The camel meat had the texture of venison. It was a little bit gamey with sausage seasoning.

     

    Food at camel wrestling

     

    This camel was so excited he couldn’t tame his spit. We later saw the (bruised face) owner grooming it with his head covered in the sticky froth. I got an action shot as I tried to avoid the spit soaring towards me:

     

    Camel Spit

     

    The camels in queue were kept to the side of the arena. This one stood tall and proud as his team prepped him for competition. He was covered in rugs, which winning camels are apparently awarded before exiting the stadium.

     

    Camel wrestler

     

    We sat on a rocky hillside and watched the camel wrestling for some time. During the matches, female camels in heat were circled near the arena. The males wrestled to exhibit their dominance as the alpha-camel. According to Fodor’s, there were judges, separaters (urgancı), commentators (cazgirs), and 21 officials (not including the camel owners) moderating the event. Camels can bring their owners anywhere between $2,500-$25,000, depending on the competition. The camels did not seem to hurt each other. Leah described it as a giant thumb wrestling match, only with camel heads. The officials always intervened before the animals got too aggresive.

     

    Camel Wrestling in Bodrum

     

    The musicians at the event were impressive and loud! We noticed the groups of musicians stopped by people who had brought food. When people liked the music, the musicians left with food in hand.

     

    (Hover over the video and click the sound icon to hear:)
    https://vine.co/v/MuqOFuLFgtH

     

    It was the perfect setting to hear traditional Turkish music being played on the zurna. One group gathered around people behind us and gave as much volume as their lungs could muster. They didn’t settle for us, so I guess our food was unimpressive.

     

    Turkish musicians

     

    Hundreds of people gathered on the mountain-made bleachers. Some burned off brush and made fires to cook, while others pulled rocks over the briers for seating. The atmosphere was laid back, with the occasional shout of excitement for the on-going wrestling matches. There were families enjoying meals and friends talking excitedly. We took it all in, a definite Turkish cultural experience.

     

    Camel wrestling

     

    Here are two of the camels locked mid-match. Notice the umbrellas in the background. The rain kept teasing us all afternoon.

     

    Camel wrestling

     

    What better food to eat while watching camels wrestle than cotton candy?

     

    Leah with cotton candy

     

    I picked up an official camel wrestling scarf. After an afternoon of camel wrestling culture, we decided to leave when…

     

    David with a camel scarf

     

    It started pouring. We immediately headed towards the entrance of the stadium to see if we could find a dolmuş or a taxi. However, to get to the road we had to run through the camel holding area. We played Frogger with the camels and got completely soaked by the rain. Kendall and Bo were thrilled:

     

    Rain at camel wrestling

     

    (Hover over the video and click the sound icon to hear:)
    https://vine.co/v/MuqJbuK7Ub3

     

    We followed this camel and his team down the road. The camel decided he had had enough. His owners tried to persuade him, but he wasn’t interested. He was content to camp out in the street and block traffic:

     

    Dragging camels up a road

     

    We couldn’t find a taxi, so we decided to walk. During our wet hike towards the city, we saw this view of Bodrum and the Gulf of Gökova, a merging point of the Mediterranean and Aegean. It was a beautiful sight after a day full of surprises. 

     

    Rain in Bodrum, Turkey

     

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    A Parking Garage Full of Camels

    You never know what to expect in Turkey. During our recent trip in Bodrum, we were at the bus station about to head back to the house. Some of us went to find a restroom, and we followed the signs until we got to a parking garage. Right before we rounded the corner to the bathrooms, we came upon a sight we never could have imagined. Sitting in the parking garage were… camels. A whole lot of camels.

     

    (Hover over the video and click the sound icon to hear:)

     

    We knew there was a camel wrestling festival in town, but we never thought we’d stumble upon the camel motel. The camels were dressed in rugs with their names draped over their sides. The owners were grooming, chatting, and comparing camels as we walked through the parking garage of humps.

     

    Camel in a parking garage

     

    This big guy put his head down for Kendall and me to pet. He seemed to love the attention and leaned to the side as we scratched behind his head. However, someone promptly warned us camels can lunge forward and that we were in the striking zone!

     

    Petting a camel in a parking garage

     

    Bo counted 58 camels within sight:

     

    Camel in a parking garage

     

    If I owned a camel, I don’t know where I’d put it. But I guess a parking garage works.

     

    Camel next to a truck

     

    Seeing all of the camels only got us more excited for the camel wrestling event the next day!

     

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